Saturday, January 27, 2007

Onward to Visag




Jan26

Bit of a panic this morning. I could not get on the train I wanted at Gunter Junction, had to catch it one more stop up the line which meant catching another train at Gunter to go intercept it. Buying the ticket was easy enough, 13 rupees, and the directions were simple enough. Show up at 4:30 am. That was where simple ended. Got there at 4:30 and the helpful guy at information looked non-plussed when I asked what track to go to to catch a train to this one stop up the line. He said that the express to Vishakaputnam had gone by at 3:30. I pointed out where my ticket instructed me to board at Vijayawada at 6:55.

A by-stander suggested track three and he agreed. I went to track three. There was a completely dead train sitting there all locked and dark with numerous Indians attempting to gain entrance through every possible door and window. Finally a group did find an open door and got on to sit in the dark. This seemed like an odd way to do business. I guess I looked non-plussed enough that a guy asked me if I knew where I was going. I told him Vijayawada Junction, to intercept the Presanthi Express. He said this is the Golkerna Express, the train you need is on track four. So off I go to track four, where a train coming all the way from Vasco de Gama over on the other coast in Goa is just pulling into the station. Indian rail officials are like cops, thick as theives when I am trying to sneak a cigarette but never there when you need one. Finally I went way down the train to the reserved section and asked a guy hanging about catching a quick puff if this train was going to Vijawada Junction. He said, that's one stop up the line, just grab the porters seat and come along. A few other guys with brief cases got on and stood in the passage and off we went. Nobody to check tickets or anything. Got to the stop 20 minutes before the Preshanti Express pulled in. The Golkerna train came in ten minutes later, so the dead train would have worked as well. There was a notice by the door that a special train had come through at 3:30, express to Visag, but not the one I was catching so I guess that was what the confusion was about. I did a little praying that the train would come in on track one so I wouldn't have to haul my luggage up and down more steps, and merciful heavans, my prayers were answered. After that it was a pretty uneventful journey. Nice chat with an Indian real estate mogul in Houstan Texas. 150 apartment buildings, can you imagine? Then caught a few hours of catch up sleep before Vishakapatnam.

I like Visag. 250 rupee rooms are easy to find and it is an interesting town to go for a walk in. It's situated on both sides of a rocky hump sticking out into the sea. One shore line is naval base and container ship port and the other is public beach. The city streets run up and down and over this promontory.I always get lost. You can go do a little beach time if you want. It's a city beach, not a resort beach, no swimming because of the rocks and undertow and the beachside ammenities run to lots of statues of famous Indian's and some odd fantasy creatures rather than beach shacks and restaurants. They even have a submarine beached on the waterfront you can tour. Not a lot of lounging about on the sand slurping down beer on this side of India. But the sea air is still lovely and it's wonderfully cool at this time of year. No, I didn't take all those photos today, I'm not that much of an overachiever. Those are from last year.

There is an emporium there that has the most wonderful hand woven and hand printed cottons. This is the only place I have seen selling them, bought a whole bunch of huge bedsheets for 350 for the doubles and 150 for the singles. The guy remembered me from last year, gave me his card if I ever want him to ship me some. Got some wonderfully embroidered cotton dress goods and short and long men's kurtas in that wonderful cotten. I has so much character and texture in the hand. I love it. Then I went down and splurged 550 rs on a meal at the Taj, one of India's five star chains. They have amazing food and world class service. Even their coffee is wonderful, wish I could afford to check in one day.

Wanted to find out what it would cost to fly to Goa, guy at Air India told me, forget it, the airport has been closed for seven days because of fog with no end in sight. So I guess it's the train again for me.

And so, back to my cubical to work some more on the newspaper.

Tomorrow I am going to grab a rickshaw and hit every ATM in town and see if any of them will give me money after I figure out the train stuff. I'd love to buy more cotton, and the huge Indian suitcase I'm going to need now to carry my prizes, but I don't want to arrive broke in Goa, still have to get back to Puttaparthi.

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